Civil War Millinery Catalog

Cleaning Hats and Trim


Felt Hats

If the felt has only a few spots, try using dry-cleaning fluid to remove them. Felt hats which are dented or crushed can be steamed and ironed over a press-pad or steam-pressed over a block. The felt should be well brushed to remove all dirt before steaming. Should the nap of a felt become flattened, rub it with fine sandpaper or a stiff brush to restore the texture. Use a circular motion and begin at the center of the tip working your way down and around the hat to the outer brim edge. Be careful not to rub too hard or you will leave bald spots. Try to rub in only one direction.


Straw Hats

Straws collect dirt faster than fabric or felt. In hot weather the sizing becomes sticky and dirt clings to it. Dirt also tends to collect crevices. The best method for keeping straw clean during prolonged use is frequent brushing. If the straw becomes lightly soiled, steam is and the brush with a piece of velvet. Some straws can be spot-cleaned with a soft cloth dipped in dry-cleaning fluid. Light-colored straws cna also be cleaned with diluted hydrogen peroxide. For dark straws, use a weak solution of ammonia and water. Crushed and dented straws can be ironed over a block or press-pad, depending on the shape. You may want to steam the straw to soften before ironing. Be sure to keep a dry press cloth between the iron and the straw to prevent scorch marks. Keep the iron in constant motion, as allowing it to rest in one spot will leave press marks. White straws can be bleachd with a homemade paste of the juice of two lemons and two tablepoons of sulfer. Apply the paste with a soft cloth and allow it to dry on the straw. Brush off the dry powder with a stiff bruch. Be sure to remove all of the paste.


Flowers

Crushed flowers can usually be restored by steaming. Hold the flower upside down in the steam and shake it gently untill all creases are removed and the petals fall in the proper direction. To restore stiffness, try a light coating of clear acrylic spray. Loose petals and leaves can be reglued with millinery glue or rubber cement. Trim away any soiled or frayed edges. Cover dirty stalks with fresh green floral tape. If the flower is heavily soiled, dip it in a dry cleaning fluid and shake upside down to dry.


Lace

Fragile antique laces require a very delicate treatment to avoid ripping the threads. To wash an old lace, fill a shallow tub with warm water and gentle liquid soap. Swish the water around to mix the soap. Fold the lace into halves or quarters so that it is small enough to lie flat in the tub. Do not rub the lace or allow it to tangle. Let it soak as long as necessary, squeezing it every so often. When clean, dump out the dirty water and replace it with clean rinse water. DO NOT wring out the lace. Remove the lace and gently unfold over a large towel. Place another towel over the towel and press down all over with your hands to remove the excess water. To iron lace with a raised pattern place the right side down on a board covered with a towel. Lay a piece of flannel over the lace and press lightly with a moderate hot iron. Do not move the iron back an forth, but press with an up and down motion.


Ribbons

Crushed ribbon bows may be restored by steaming for a few seconds and then inserting a hot curling iron in the loop of the bow. When dry, remove any dust with a velvet pad. If necessary, spot clean the bow with dry cleaning fluid.


Veiling

Most limp veilings can be revived and stiffened by ironing. If ironing does not produce the desired stiffness, try placing it over a piece of wax paper. Pin the veil in place so all edges are straight. Cover with another sheet and press with a moderately hot iron.


Feathers

Good quality single feathers can be cleaned and reused many times by dipping in dry cleaning fluid or soapy water. Curled ostrich feathers have to be re-curled after cleaning. Group of feathers that are glued together should not be cleaned because the glue will dissolve. Neither curled ostrich feathers nor glued feathers should be steamed.


Storage of Hats

For short term storage, hats should be placed on styrofoam headblocks or cone-shaped tubes made from cardboard to fit into the crown and elevate the brim. Large bows should be stuffed with tissue paper when the hat is not is use. Store hats in covered boxes - several similarly shaped hats can be stacked inside one another with tissue paper in between. Large crowns may need to be stufffed with tissue paper to prevent crushing. Each hat may be individually wrapped in plastic bags. Include moth balls in the boxes.




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